The Yosemite Boulder
Despite my vow on Friday that I was done with climbing and would begin pursuing other, less frustrating sports (croquet and checkers come to mind) I found myself meeting friends to boulder at Lincoln Woods on Sunday. The theme of the day for me was put Friday’s frustration in the past and recapture a little climbing swagger. I was looking for a bounce back day.
Finding some confidence on the Yosemite Crack
For me, achieving a bounce back is not always easy. Often I am not battling against my physical limitations but rather I am battling against mental demons. Whether it is a lack of psyche, lack of confidence, or just wanting success so bad, I begin relying on psychical strength and forget to just think about the climb. In the spirit of getting myself right we sought out a collection of problems that I enjoy, that I know the moves on, and that suit my style of climbing. By doing this I hoped to set myself up for some early success. By picking problems that were either a grade or two below my limit, I hoped to ensure my boarding of the send train.
Mickey Spades laying back the Yosemite Crack
Sunday’s weather was perfect. I had anticipated it being cold and it was, but we had abundant sunshine and no wind which made it feel much warmer than it was. The parking lot looked as if there were already more than a handful of climbers by the time we arrived so we headed to the Yosemite Boulder
first, hoping to find both peace in the busy park and some confidence for me in the boulder’s cracks. The Yosemite Boulder is one of the more remote boulders in the park and a good place to go if the park seems busy. While the climbing at Yosemite is not steep, it is technical and the boulder possesses some fun cracks and face climbs.
Brian on Right Loadie
After some success at the Yosemite Boulder we headed toward the Heart Boulders. There was a group on the Upper Heart so we went to the Lower Heart
. The Lower Heart has some very fun moderate problems that climb up the boulder’s edges, some moderate-but-technical slab climbs on the front side of the boulder, and a fun traverse of the right side of the boulder.
Me on the Lower Heart Traverse
After some having some fun on the Lower Heart we moved to the Summit Boulders
hoping to find the sun and a little bit of warmth. Because the Summit Boulders sit on top of a hill they get a lot of sun and are usually a warm place to climb. The Summit Boulders possess a ton of moderate problems that include everything from crimps and cracks to slopers. The Summit Boulders can be a great place to end the day, but beware: the rock is sharp, and not always friendly to hands that have been climbing all day.
Brian climbing the Penny Pincher
Sunday was a huge success for me and the bounce back was complete. We had an amazing weather day and as a group we visited a bunch of boulders that we had not been to in quite some time. We climbed a bunch of amazing problems and my climbing mojo was restored. I even found myself jumping on a few climbs that I have historically found difficult or scary and ended up sending something that I would qualify as a test piece for myself.
Mickey Spades the Summit Traverse
Bouncing back on the Penny Pincher