Friction Fix

Back home and as good as new

If you climb as frequently as I do, and with as consistently poor footwork, you will find yourself wearing out climbing shoes at a pretty fast rate.  In addition to my poor technique and frequency of use, I have recently found myself climbing at the gym a lot.  While texture of gym holds are great for climbing, they shorten the lifespan of climbing shoes.

While over the past few years I have accumulated an impressive collection of climbing shoes, even buying some shoes to use solely in the gym, I still find myself gravitating to the one or two pairs of shoes that I really like.  For me that is my La Sportiva Miura Lace Up and La Sportiva Miura Velcro.

The problem with my affinity for La Sportiva Miuras is that they are expensive and I wear through them quickly. About two months ago I blew a hole in my Miura Velcros and I vowed I would wear through some of my shoe collection before buying any new shoes.  That thought lasted about a month before I began to yearn for my favorite pair of shoes.

Pair one

In keeping with my vow to not buy any shoes I sent my Miuras to Friction Fix in West Virginia for a resole.  In the past I have used Rock and Resole in Boulder, Colorado and been very impressed with their work.  Rock and Resole, however, was out of stock in the rubber I wanted so I decided to try somewhere new.

The best thing about a resoled shoe is that they have already been broken in.  The initial few uncomfortable wears are out of the shoe leaving the shoe feeling comfortable as soon as you get it back.  The bad thing is that if you stink up shoes, a resole does nothing about the funk. In this case, a new pair of shoes may be in order.

Pair 2

My Miuras came back to me a few days ago and I was very impressed with the look of the resole.  Upon close inspection you can see the resole, but from any distance my shoes look brand new. Having just given them their first climb I can say I am very pleased.  Putting them on my feet was like slipping into your favorite pair of jeans or that perfect old hoodie you can’t get rid of.  You can’t quite tell what it is, but something just feels right with them on.

My Miuras took roughly a month to come back from the day I sent them away.  It was not a terrible turn around if you consider that Thanksgiving fell in between when I shipped them and when I got them back.  If you have an old pair of shoes that died before their time, consider breathing new life into them with a resole.

I hope that, in addition to new rubber, they came home with some good New River Juju